ALUMINUM TRIGGER COVER for Crosman 1377 1322 Drifter 1300KT 2289G PC77

$44.0 Buy It Now or Best Offer
free,30-Day Returns

Seller Store magnum-airpower-llc
(5713) 99.6%,

Location: West Hatfield, Massachusetts
Ships to: US,
Item: 111971727888

Restocking Fee:No
Return shipping will be paid by:Buyer
All returns accepted:Returns Accepted
Item must be returned within:14 Days
Refund will be given as:Money Back
Magnum Airpower:Magnum Airpower
MPN:Does Not Apply

This listing complies with eBay’s air gun guidelines found here and I will only sell and ship air guns to buyers in jurisdictions where permitted by applicable laws – http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/firearms-weapons-knives.html This listing is for the aluminum trigger cover shown in the main photo only, other parts shown for reference. This custom cover is machined from 7075-T6 aluminum, one of the strongest of all commercial aluminum alloys, stronger than many types of mild steel and stainless steel only much lighter. It fits the current Crosman & Benjamin pistol trigger frames that have three mounting screws for the cover. This includes models 1377C, 1322C, PC77, P1377, P1322, 1300KT, PC77, Drifter, 2289G Backpacker, 2240, 2250, 2300T, 2300S, 2300KT, 2400KT, 1701P, 1720T, Marauder Pistol and all other models that use the same trigger frame cover Crosman part number 1322B044. It will not replace the older die-cast metal covers that only have two mounting screws 1322A044. For the PCP models that have the 2-stage trigger group, there’s generally two things that need to be done for this cover to fit and work smoothly, especially if using our custom safety. First, the safety hole in the trigger-frame needs to be deburred and smoothed-out. We use a 2″ x 2″ square of wet/dry 300-600 grit sandpaper rolled into a very tight tube, sometimes it needs to be made from a smaller square depending on the thickness of the sandpaper. You generally only need to spin the sandpaper tube, as shown in the 4th photo, a half-dozen times in each direction, let it expand to fill the hole snugly, keep it straight and use light pressure. You only want to reduce any high spots and burrs, not enlarge the hole. The hole in the 5th photo looks well-reamed but very little material was actually removed, mostly just paint and burrs. Next, use the same tube of sandpaper to round-over the sharp edges and flat spot on top of the trigger where the safety engages, this is shown in the 6th photo. The trigger and safety if installed correctly will fit snug together, work smooth and when the safety’s engaged there’s no noticeable trigger movement front to back, slight movement is fine also but there shouldn’t be a lot of slop. Do a minimal amount of fitting in these two areas, then try the parts for function before working the frame and trigger any further. The parts will generally work fine if they fit a little loose but most prefer they fit snug with no excess trigger movement when the safety is engaged. If severely over-worked the safety may not work reliably.

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